RMT- Ruapehu Round the Mountain Track - New Zealand

RMT - Round the Mountain Track Ruapehu- journal of a 6-day trip
clockwise from National Park 29/1/2018 - 4/2/2018.
external link: http://www.nationalpark.co.nz/activities/tongariro-national-park-hike/round-the-mountain-track

Returning for a short visit to New Zealand after a long absence abroad, I had a hankering for a nostalgic visit to Mt Ruapehu where I had learnt to ski, forty years ago and also, to introduce my friend to the thrills of tramping in New Zealand..…
Having a few days to spare, we decided to do the Ruapehu Round the Mountain Track.

Wellington to National Park- 6 hours by bus
Since we planned to start the Ruapehu Round the Mountain Track from National Park, we travelled from Wellington the day before on the Intercity bus arriving at National Park at 2pm.
Here, we overnighted in a hostel. We were impressed by the quality of the accommodation - the hospitality, the facilities and the price which was the cheapest on the whole of our New Zealand trip.
We also found a small supermarket in National Park. Not knowing of its existence beforehand, we had carried all our food from Wellington as a precaution and were annoyed to find that we did not need to do this after all.
DAY 1
National Park - Mangahuia Campsite - 6 kms on road
Mangahuia Campsite - Whakapapaiti Hut via – Mangahuia Track and Whakapapaiti Track - 4-5 hours
From National Park we successfully hitched a ride to the Mangahuia Campsite for the start of our walk. We were not looking forward to a 6 kilometre road walk from National Park with our heavy 15+kg packs and were happy to get the lift.
The Mangahuia Track was a disappointment. All our attention was spent in trying to navigate a very badly maintained track and keep ourselves upright. We had no time to appreciate the magnificent native bush we were walking through. The track was either a stream or a trough of steep descents and steep climbs. Well-worn tree roots were used as handholds to haul ourselves up and down. With our heavy packs, it all became a bit tiring after a few hours…..
The openness and flatness of the Whakapapaiti Valley was a big relief. We did not mind the monotonous landscape of low scrubby bush and tussock as we were now making faster progress.
Our next major challenge was the Whakapapaiti River crossing. Despite DOC advice that this river crossing can be boulder-hopped, this is not true for everyone. For short people, it is impossible to cross a river and jump from boulder to boulder when carrying a heavy pack. You can easily lose your balance and be thrown into the water - this happened…..
Whakapapaiti Hut - our first experience of a DOC hut - came as an unexpected surprise. Not knowing what to expect from a DOC hut, we were impressed by the standard of the facilities. That afternoon we were able to lounge and relax in the hot sun, enjoy a late lunch, dry our clothes – socks, that is, and try to forget the experience of the Mangahuia Track.
DAY 2
Whakapapaiti Hut - Whakapapa Village via Bruce Road -2h30
Whakapapa Village - Waihohonu Hut - 5h30
total walking time - 8h30
Today was the longest day of the walk - 8+ hours - and called for an early start from Whakapapaiti Hut. We set off at 8am. The weather was fine and sunny. The climb up to the Bruce Road was easy and the track was decent. The 6+ kms along the Bruce Road on the other hand, was a monotonous trudge. However, we did keep our feet dry and the road was flat.
We were put off going on the lower route via the Silica Rapids Track which, according to discouraging comments from trampers coming the other way, appeared to be in the same mess as the Mangahuia Track we had encountered.
We finally arrived in Whakapapa Village at 10.30am. At the Visitor Centre we were able to buy more DOC hut tickets (we had to buy our first DOC hut ticket for Whakapapaiti Hut in Wellington !) and obtain last minute RMT information. The reason we did not start our RMT walk from Whakapapa Village was the expense. We preferred the alternative of overnighting at Whakapapaiti Hut and having an 8+ hour walk the next day, instead.
For those looking for unspoilt nature, it is better not to linger in Whakapapa Village which is very crowded, touristy and expensive in season.
We left Whakapapa Village at 11.00am and arrived at Waihohonu Hut at 4.30pm
The track to Tama Lakes was pretty with colourful heather and low trees. But the crowds spoilt it. Despite the attractiveness of the track, even this became monotonous after a while as there was no change in scenery. The junction to Lower Tama Lakes brought welcome relief in change of scenery – tussocky grass rather than heather and becoming more interesting but bleaker as the path ran alongside the Waihohonu Stream.
Waihohonu Hut was very busy. This was the only DOC hut on our walk with a resident warden and the only hut where we had to reserve in advance. The warden was very informative with extensive local knowledge of plants and animals, weather, state of tracks and safety.
DAY 3
Waihohonu Hut to Rangipo Hut - 5 hrs.
This was the worse day of the walk.
As bad weather was forecast that day we had an early 7.15am start and set off at a trot in fine weather. With the new Whangaehu swing bridge conveniently opened the day before we managed to save time by avoiding a river crossing and getting our feet wet.
The going was good, therefore, at the beginning of the walk. Then trouble started.
Two hours into the walk, high winds set in, turning the next three hours into a straight endurance test. Novice walkers - beware ! New Zealand weather can get very nasty on the tops…
Strong gusts of gale force wind pushed us sideways. With our heavy packs it was difficult to keep balance, walk in a straight line and avoid being tipped over.
The last straw was the heavy rain that pelted down in the final hour.
Two sodden trampers finally reached the shelter of Rangipo Hut drenched to the skin and with the contents of their packs thoroughly soaked (our plastic bags still sitting nicely folded and unused at the bottom of our packs.…).
With very good luck, we still had dry matches and soon managed to get a roaring fire going.
The rest of the day was spent drying everything and reviving sagging spirits with hot drinks and food.
Unfortunately, the bad weather that day did not leave us time to linger and appreciate the geography of the area we were passing through - the unique desert landscape - the sparse vegetation and the ancient lava flows...
The type of walking track we encountered from Waihohonu Hut to Rangipo Hut ranged from a well-marked track to a pole-marked track where the walker was left to pick his own way between the marker poles.
Fortunately, for us, visibility was good, the terrain was smooth, there were no rocks to negotiate and despite the horrible weather, we made the hut in good time.
The danger of a pole-marked track lies in the (lack of)visibility. In a thick mist or at night, it could be a disaster. You would have to jump into survival mode and navigate with map and compass to avoid getting lost.
Once, snug and warm in the hut, it was nice to be only a spectator to the howling gale and rain beating down outside. The storm continued in full force all night long and only eased up in early morning.
The next day dawned to clear skies and the storm of the previous day was quickly forgotten.
There was even time for reflection in the early morning stillness of this remote alpine setting and crisp mountain air….
« Sitting on the throne, door propped open with a rock, gazing at a full moon in all its splendour - where was I at 5am this Friday morning ? Rangipo Hut, of course….. »
DAY 4
Rangipo Hut to Mangaehuhu Hut - 5 hr30mins.
With the weather clearing up around 9am, we quickly packed up and set off for Mangaehuhu Hut.
Crossing the Waihianoa Gorge was slow and difficult as paths were steep and rocky with loose rocks.
We were very impressed though with the swing bridge.
The lush Karoi Forest later on, was an entry into another world - passing from an arid moonlike desert landscape into a world of rich biodiversity.
There were now formed paths rather than none at all.
These paths however, brought another problem - an extensive series of wooden walkways covering a vast stretch of swampy land. In many places the wooden planks were very slippery, steep or unstable.
We had to concentrate hard to stop sliding or falling and injuring ourselves. Because so much attention was spent on negotiating the planks safely we did not have time to appreciate the lush vegetation we were walking through. This was really a pity as we were passing through some of the most attractive parts of the RTM.
Mangaehuhu Hut however, was a welcome sight and that night we enjoyed the comfort of an entire hut to ourselves.
DAY 5
Mangaehuhu Hut to Blyth Hut - 3hrs.
Today we woke up to rain. This prompted a radical change in our plans.
We decided to shorten our RTM itinerary and come out at Ohakune rather than via the Mangahuia Track as we had started.
The reason for cutting the walk short was the rain. The prospect of tackling the two major river crossings on the RTM - the Mangaturuturu and Whakapapaiti in flood, was not an appealing proposition… We were also lukewarm about tackling the Mangahuia Track again.
As soon as the rain stopped at 10am, we set off for Blyth Hut.
This was one of the most pleasant parts of the RTM with a mix of open tussock country and shady beech forest.
Blyth Hut, being close to the Ohakune Road and it being the weekend, was also one of the busiest DOC huts on the RTM. This was in marked contrast to the last two huts which we had had all to ourselves…..
An accessible hut such as Blyth Hut has its downsides and can attact a strange assortment of people.
Late that night two mysterious armed men in jungle greens entered the hut. The unexpected appearance of these visitors had hut occupants quaking in their socks. The new visitors did not speak English and were not very sociable. That night their noise made from drinking and loud conversation frustrated any attempts to sleep - some walkers facing 10-11 hour days on the RMT and needing early starts the next day.……. Such are the joys of communal living….
DAY 6
Blyth Hut to National Park via Ohakune.
Blyth Hut to Ohakune Road 1h30
The next day dawned bright and clear. Luckily, we had an easy day out for the last day of the RMT walk and the lack of sleep from a rowdy hut did not bother us too much.
We set off from Blyth Hut at 8.30am, our packs a lot lighter than the first day of the walk…..
Signs that we were returning to civilisation was the appearance of more people on the track.
Photographers cluttered up paths, busily setting up and fussing around cameras in order to capture a once-in-a-lifetime view of a magnificent Ruapehu. Mt Ruapehu today was certainly looking its best – an imposing snow-topped mountain against a clear blue sky - the mirror image sharply reflected in the tarns below….
We, on the otherhand, were feeling rather grumpy - a camera with a flat battery unable to do justice to this wonderful view. Luckily the situation was salvaged with makeshift shots captured on our telephone. The telephone still working thanks to the solar-powered battery charger brought on the trip....
Day-trippers started crowding the paths - tourists in sneakers or flimsy footwear, getting their fix of mountain air - not at all equipped for a mountain environment if the weather suddenly turned nasty…..
Luckily we managed to avoid the tedious 15km road walk to Ohakune - the final stretch, by hitching a lift. The lift was not easy to get and took a lot of thumbing. But we did it…..
We therefore managed to finish our Round the Mountain walk in style and arrived in Ohakune fresh and relaxed.
In Ohakune, there was no time for celebration. Our next challenge was to find a cheap way back to National Park. Luckily we obtained tickets for the Intercity bus and at 13.15 we were on our way back to National Park to the starting point of our walk, happy to have completed the full circle…...

SUMMING UP
Sitting on the throne, door propped open with a rock, gazing at a full moon in all its splendour – where was I at 5am this Friday morning ? Rangipo Hut, of course…..

This walk is not a picnic and should only be tackled by fit, experienced trampers. This is due to the remoteness of most of the huts and the lack of ready help in case of accidents.
To do the walk comfortably, you need 6 days. Only very fit people can tackle the 10-12 hour days needed to complete the circuit in fewer than 6 days. If caught in bad weather or any accident on Ruapehu, you could be hours away from the nearest shelter and help, trapped by flooding rivers, lack of visibility and lack of any means of communication..… You therefore have to be prepared to abandon the walk at any time.
When considering the trip, do not get carried away by lavish descriptions of the walk: external link: http://www.nationalpark.co.nz/activities/tongariro-national-park-hike/round-the-mountain-track

but examine the following links carefully to assess your capability of even being able to do the walk - external links : https://www.doc.govt.nz/roundthemountain#page-id-9361

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand/tongariro-national-park/activities/round-the-mountain-track/a/poi-act/1246815/362764

https://runningwildnz.com/wild-trails/north-island-trails/central-plateau/round-the-mountain-ruapehu/

Once you have decided to do the walk, plan your trip carefully. It is crucial to select carefully the type of equipment, amount of food, fuel etc. you need to carry and not be weighed down  by superfluous excess weight.
We started gathering together equipment for this walk weeks before. Before we flew to New Zealand, in fact - looking for lightweight sleepingbags, sheets, tent, stove, solar-powered battery charger, strong mountain boots, maps, compass, means of sterilising water etc.… ( our matches, kept dry in a waterproof container, proved to be very useful indeed, on the walk).

General comment
The biggest problem with walking in New Zealand is not the walk itself, but finding a cheap way to get to the walk. As returning Kiwis and tourists in this country we could see that visitors were being exploited - the tourist industry keen to make a quick buck off hapless tourists stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Visitors have come to see the good side of New Zealand. They are not there to be pumped of their tourist dollars to prop up a sick economy….
If the country is serious about building up its tourist industry, a lot more effort must be put into the tourist infrastructure - better public transport, maintaining tracks etc.
New Zealand’s reputation is at stake. It is time to wake up and ensure that tourists can take home a good impression of the country they have come to visit.